The Pineapple Room

By Anni Caporuscio

Cubano. I can’t rave enough about Cubano sandwiches in general, and this one is not messing around. It’s simple, good-working people food. It satisfies your hungry belly and your taste buds. The Cubano is a bit of a culinary masterpiece for all the time-management in the kitchen it takes to prepare it, and all the ingredients to get it just right before assembly.

There’s something naturally celebratory about Cuban restaurants. Maybe it’s the bright colors or the passionately sung music. It’s definitely the food, of course, and it reflects a culture that revels in the good things — food, music, celebrations, friends.

The Pineapple Room was originally dreamed by Susana Espinosa, the mastermind behind Kapa‘a’s breakfast spot, Kountry Kitchen Restaurant. She highlighted Cuban food and music on Kapa‘a’s First Saturday Art Walk, and it was a well-received success. Her son, Adam Rick, along with his partner Lesya Lackey ran with the concept and opened The Pineapple Room on a full-time basis last January right next to Kountry Kitchen.

The year 2020 seems like a cursed time to open a tiny restaurant but there are several contributors to The Pineapple Room’s growing success — though it has inside and outside seating, it was born for take-out, it is the only Cuban restaurant in the state, and it is Cuban food!

The Pineapple Room has a small dining room only two tables. While we enjoyed our meal, several people, masked, came in for take-out, for which they’d called ahead. There are also three tables spaced outside in a festive zone of festoon lighting, high tables, and a view of the colorful Eastside sunset.

Bistec con Mojo. Medium rare steak sliced, smothered in lime cilantro sauce over Cuban signature rice and black beans. A simple meal, but the spices are something incredible and not something I can duplicate at home.

Adam and Lesya tell me that The Pineapple Room is the only Cuban Restaurant in the whole state of Hawai‘i. As such, it’s difficult for them to find some key ingredients, but what they can’t find, they source from the Motherland: Miami. Spices come from there and they even bring in Cuban soda (and now I need to do a taste test of Mexican, American and Cuban soda). Yuca, or cassava, isn’t always easy to find on Kaua‘i, but this starchy, root vegetable is one of the staples of Cuban cuisine. Plantains, a banana variant, can be difficult to source as well, but a Cuban-style fried plantain is well worth the search.

Adam’s grandmother came to Kaua‘i when he was born and stayed to help to raise him. So Cuban is the first food he learned to cook and he loves it. Adam says Cuba has a different history with a host of contributing cultures, including its original people, Spain, France and parts of Africa. Each culture brought a touch to the local cuisine. It is characterized by cumin, lime and sour orange flavors. It is not typically spicy, but it has a lot of spice and flavor. There’s also amazing and seemingly simple rice and beans that I’ve never been able to duplicate but wish I could. Cuban also uses a lot of tender pork but also features steak and chicken, and a vegan bowl as well.

Yuca Fries, served with cilantro aioli. Yuca is cassava root. These fries are out a little sturdier than the usual French fries, and not as oily but crispier and better tasting.

I am in love with the legendary (in my estimation) street food sandwich Cubano, and will eat it wherever I can. It has layers of pulled pork, white cheese, ham, pickles and mustard, all grilled on a soft long roll. Adam puts his own spin on it by heating everything before he assembles the sandwich for grilling so it’s all hot and melty on the inside and out. The vinegar addition to the salty pork is everything with the melted cheese.

Let me also mention empanadas, participators in the worldwide phenomenon of fried dough pockets filled with wonderful things. The Pineapple Room offers a variety of empanadas, sweet and savory, that are assembled with homemade dough (thank you, Lesya), fried to order and served with special house made sauces.

For a happy change in your meal planning and easy take-out, try The Pineapple Room at 4-1485 Kuhio Hwy in Kapaa. Find their menu on social media and call ahead at 822-3511 for pickup and curbside delivery. They are open Wednesday-Sunday 5-8 p.m. Their Instagram account @the.pineapple.room boasts some very sexy shots of Cuba and Cuban food.

Anni Caporuscio is a food, coffee and book lover. She can be found walking her dog Wilson at the Kapa‘a Bike Path, or crushing enemies at the Kapa‘a Hockey Rink during roller derby season.

Lesya Lackey and Adam Rick, owners of The Pineapple Room. They work hard to bring authentic Cuban food to Kapa‘a. The Pineapple Room is the only Cuban Restaurant in the state of Hawai‘i.

Guava Empanada. It’s a sweet dough pocket filled with guava jam and sweet cheese.

Cubano. I can’t rave enough about Cubano sandwiches in general, and this one is not messing around. It’s simple, good-working people food. It satisfies your hungry belly and your taste buds. The Cubano is a bit of a culinary masterpiece for all the time-management in the kitchen it takes to prepare it, and all the ingredients to get it just right before assembly.

Platanos Maduros. These fried plantains are essential side dish. Plantains are the tough cousin of bananas but when you fry them, they turn sweet and soft.